IfeltlikeIwasinoneofthosedarkfairytaleswherethestormyseastaketheirvengeanceontheheroinewhoseshipisnowoverturnedandisbeingpulledintotheabyssbyinvisibleforces.AndjustwhenIthoughtIwasn’tgoingtomakeitoutofthevortex,Isawalifesaverjustafewfeetwithinreach.Igrabbedholdanditbroughtmeupoutofthewaterandpulledmetowardthecityofangels.
TheyearwasalmostoverandafterareallygreatmonthofhostingmymomandsisterinLA,IdecidedthatIwouldtakeadvantageoftheChristmas/NewYearbreakbytakingatripoutofthecountryandcrossingoffamajortravelbucket-listitem.IwasfinallygoingtomakeittoSouthAmericawithatriptoColombia,acountrythatIhavebeenadmiringfromafarforsometime.ThereweremanyfriendsandevenaLyftdriverortwothatexpressedconcernaboutmytravelingsolotoColombia.IthinkthatwasduetothereputationthatColombiahadformanyyearsduetothedevastationcausedbythedrugcartels,ensuingviolenceandthereacquaintingofthathistorythankstothesuccessoftheNarcosfranchise.Andindefenseofmyfriends,theirconcernmostlystemmedfromknowingthatIwasstilldealingwithPTSDafterthepreviouslyreferencedtraumatsunami.Andwhilealloftheirconcernwasheartfeltandloving,IknewthatIwantedtostartinColombiaandseehowIwouldfeelbeingthere.IwantedtoseeifIreturnedevenbrieflytoalifeoftravel,wouldIfeelthesameexhilarationWouldmyconfidencereemergeWillIfeellikeMe
AsIleftLAXonChristmasEve,Istartedtofeelthatfamiliarthrillthatcomesfromsettingoffonanadventuretoanewplace.“Thiswastherightcall”Iassuredmyself.IlandedinMedellínaroundmidnightandarrangedwiththehotelforacartopickmeup.IknewthatIwantedtostayinahotelthat’smoreupscalethanwhenIwasonmylongtriptogivemyselfsomeofthesafeguardsandcomfortIneededforashorttrip.MydriverandIfoundeachotherassoonasIleftcustomsandnoteven20minutesintomyarrivalinColombia,Ihadtwodistinctthoughts:“girl,youpackedtoomuchshit”and“whydidyoustudyFrenchnotSpanish,youdummy”
MedellínknownastheCityofEternalSpring,isalarge,thrivingcitywithpulsingwithenergyandchange.It’snolongerPabloEscobar’scity,it’sthepeople’scity.They’vedonesomuchworktoturnawayfromtheviolenceofthenottoodistantpastandabigpartoftheirsuccessinbringingjobs,safetyandcommercetothecitywasbyinvestingintheirpublictransportation.Theirmetrosystemisfast,clean,inexpensiveandspreadacrossthemountainousareas.TheircablecarsarefamousnotonlyfortouristswhowanttoclimbupthemountaintogettoArviPark,whichcandidlyIdidn’tfindthatimpressive,buttherideupandviewscertainlyare.Thecarsthatgointothesmallmountain-sidebarriosgivetheresidentsefficientandaffordableaccesstothecitycenterforworkandrecreation.
IdecidedthatIwantedtogosomewhereoutsideofthecity,someplacesmallerwherethingsmovedmoreslowly.IwenttoGuatapéalittletownabouttwohoursaway.ItookoneofthosesmalllocalbusesthatwasfullwhenIboarded,sothebusdrivertookpityonmeandinvitedmetositinthefrontofthebus.Score!Thiswasdefinitelyafamiliarexperience,thrillingandwhite-knuckled,asthefriendlydrivertalksonthephoneandeatshissnackswhilespeedingfastandfuriousupandaroundthemountains.I’dheardfromacoupleofpeopleaboutthisplaceincludingfrommynieceJinnawhoisafull-timeworldexplorer,surfphotographerandfreespiritthatIshouldtryandmakeadaytriptothistown.Ithasbecomeaweekendgetawayfortheuppermiddletowealthierclassandit’sbestknownforElPeolagiantrockthatisrumoredtorewardyouatthetopwithspectacularviews.
IstayedinthemostadorablecabanaoutsideofGuatapé,atthefootofElPeol.Eventhoughtheinsideofthecabanaisasbasicasitgetsintermsofdesignandcomfort,theoutsideiswhatcaptivates.Youhavetodragyourbagupaverysteepandrockydrivewaythatmanyofthetuktukswon’tattempt,butonceyougetupthere,theviewsareoff-the-charts.Ononesideyouseelakeswithtinyislandsclusteredinbetweenandtheotheristhatgiantrockbeckoningyoutowardits700steps.Thetownitselfisa3Dversionofanimpressionistpainting–vibrant,fullofcharacter,quaintshops,friendlymerchants,andsweetandsavorytreats–it’sInstagramXanadu.
I’msohappyIdecidedtogetoutofthecityandspendthelasttwonightsinaquieterplacesurroundedbybeautifulnaturalsettings,enjoyingtheslowerpaceandfewerpeople.AndGuatapéissocolorfulandcharmingwithbusinessesandvendorssellingeverythingfromjewelry,coffee,artandevenorganictoiletries.Andofcourse,noshortageoffoodoptionshere.However,Colombianfoodwasalittleontheblandsideforme.
ThisslideshowrequiresJavaScript.
Ialreadygavemyselfpermissiontotakeasmanybreaksasneededtogetupthere.RemindingmyselfthatIwasn’tincompetitionwithanyone,andthatifIsucceeded,therewardwouldbeevengreaterthanjustthefamousviews.Iknewthataftersurvivingthemonsterthatwas2018thatbeingabletoaccomplishsomethinglikeclimbingabigassrockwoulddowondersformyspirit.Itookeachstepdeliberately,switchingfromsuperslowtoslowandsometimesevennotslow.Iwouldn’tallowmyselftofeelsuperiortoanyoneIpassedasIknewthatamomentlater,whileI’mhuffingandsweatinginrecovery-mode,thatlovely78-year-oldabuelitanippingatmyheelswillscootrightpastmewithoutbreakingasweat.
WhenIfinallymadeittothetop,Ifinallyfeltthatfullsurgeofgratitude,hopeandawethatIfeltcountlesstimesbeforeinsomanyplacesalloverthisbeautifulworld.Ilookedallaroundandthereweresomanyamazingviewstotakein.Iboughtacupoffreshlyslicedmangos,satbackinachair,staredinaweatthelandscape,andIfeltasmallseedofrenewedconfidencetakerootinmychest.
IwouldgotoSouthAmericaaftertheholidaysandaftermycousinGrace’sweddingattheendofJanuary.Graceislikealittlesisterandtheonlydaughtertomybeloveduncleandauntsothiswasamajorfamilyevent.I’vewitnessedherlifefrombirthtobecomingasuccessfuldoctor(everyKoreanfamily’sdream)andIknewIwouldn’tmissitevenifitmeantbeingintheintensejudgmentalglareofmyentireextendedKoreanfamily.Donotunderestimatetheanxietyofbeingasingle,unemployedandhomelesswomaninher40’swhoisabouttostepintotheGladiator’sArenathatisabigKoreanfamilywedding.Andtogiveupabigjobwhereyoumadegoodmoneyandhadabigfancytitle(Koreanslovethattoo)andlivedinNYC,“wellthatdoesn’tmakeanysense”wouldbetheprevailingsentimentinmostofmyrelatives’mindsandbeingKorean,spokendirectlyoutloud.Imanagedtoavertmostofthescornandconcernaboutmytriplecurseofbeingsingle,unemployedandwithoutmyownhomebymiraculouslytransformingmyselffromhideousbeasttolovelyswan(totranslatetheKoreanresponse,Ilostsomeweight).
Andjustwhenyouthinkthingscouldn’tgetworseandIprayedthat2018wouldbringsomepositivenews,Icrashed.Moreaccurately,acarcamecrashingintome.ItwasthefirstweekofJanuaryandIwasonmywaytomyfriendAndy’splacewhenIdecidedbeingsadonhissofasoundedmorecomfortingthanbeingsadonmymom’s.Igotintomycarandbravedthe12degreedayandappreciatedseeingthesun.IwasabouttogetontothehighwaywhenatthelastminuteIdecidedtokeepstraightandtreatmyselftoacarwashandtakeadvantageofthesunshineandwashthesaltoffmyMini.Secondslateronthisbusyroadwheremostdrive45-55mph,thecarinfrontmecametoasuddenstop.IslammedonmybrakesandbysomemiraclemanagedtoaverthittinghimandforamillisecondIcelebratedmyluckbeforethecarbehindmehitmesohard,mycarspun,hitthecarinfrontmeandIexperiencedthatthingpeopletalkaboutduringlifethreateningevents.Ihadthatmomentof“God,pleasedon’tletmedienotthisway”andthankfullyIdidn’t.ButtheimpactwassoforcefulitmovedmycarseatofftherailssothatIspunabout60degreestotherightandtheleftsideofmybodyslammedintothecardoor.
Themanwhohitmefrombehindwasthefirsttospringintoaction,gettingoutofhiscartocheckonthemaninfrontofusandmeandheaskedifIwasOK.It’sapowerfulandbizarrereflextoimmediatelyrespond“yes,I’mOK.”TruthwasIwasfarfromOKbutIdidnotknowthat.Imean,Iwas“lucky”inthatIwasalive,myboneswerenotbrokenandthankfullynooneelsewasobviouslyinjured.Whenthepolicearrived,Iwasstillinshockbutstartedtogetreallyupsetandunfortunatelyencounteredaninexperiencedofficerwhomissedthedayinpolicetrainingwhentheytalkaboutshowinganykindofsympathyforvictimsoftrauma.WhenheaskedmeifIneededanambulanceIwasquicktorespondIdidn’t,butashewasrecordingthedetailsoftheaccidentandtheadrenalinestartedtodiminish,Icouldfeelincreasingpainrisinginmybody.IstartedtocryandIaskedhimifIshouldgotothehospitalwhenherepliedwithagitation“ma’amyouneedtocalmdown.Iamnotadoctor.”Luckily,SylviaandherboyfriendErvincametopickmeupanddespitethefactthattheyalsodidn’tgotomedicalschool,theyinsistedIgototheERjusttomakesureIwasreallyOK.
Inthedaysandweeksthatfollowedthisaccident,I’velearnedsomuchaboutthedo’sanddon’tsofpostcaraccidentdecisions.The“I’mOK”reflexhadmesigningsettlementclaimswiththeinsurancecompanywithinthreedaysoftheaccident,whichIlaterdiscoveredwasthenotthesmartestthingtodo.Imaynothavebrokenbones,butI’veneededalotofphysicaltherapyandtreatmentsandIdidn’tjustloseacarinthewholemess.ItwassoemotionallytraumaticandIreplayedmylastminutedecisiontogostraightinsteadofturningandhowthatdecisionledtosomuchpainandnegativeconsequences.AndinthistimepostBestYearofMyLife,Ihaven’tworkedsothefinancialconsequenceshavealsobeenanunforeseencauseofstressaswell.Insurancecalledita“totalloss”whichfeltlikeanaccuratedescriptionofnotjusttheaccident,butlifethepastfewweeks.Sadly,thevaluetheyplacedon“totalloss”wasabout$5000,whichdoesn’tquiteseemcommensuratewiththephraseorthewayIfelt.
MyfriendshavedescribedthismonthofmylifeusingbiblicalandliteraryreferenceslikethetrialsofJobortheCrucible.Initially,Iwastryingtonottoslipintothewhoa-is-meofitallbecauseIdidnothavecancer,IdidnotlosemylegtoinfectionandIdidnotdieinanaccident.However,findingthesilverliningfeltimpossiblewhenthesethingshappenedinrapidsuccessionandbeforeIknewit,Iwasdrowningcaughtintheriptideoftrauma,loss,griefandpain.Iwithdrewfromfriendsandfamilyandeverythingslowedtoapaceofjustexistingandcontemplatinghowtogetthrougheachdaywithoutfreakingoutmymomwithmyneverbeforeseenfragility.
“Youlettimepass.That’sthecure.Yousurvivethedays.Youfloatlikearabidghostthroughtheweeks.Youcryandwallowandlamentandscratchyourwaybackupthroughthemonths.Andthenonedayyoufindyourselfaloneonabenchinthesunandyoucloseyoureyesandleanyourheadbackandrealizeyou’reOK.”
Thelastpartofmyfamily’sKoreanexpeditionwasinSeoul.ThiscapitalcityisbestknownforitsunexpectedcombinationofitscloseproximitytoNorthKorea/DMZ,beingthecountry’sfinancialandbusinesshub,beingtheHollywoodofAsiawithitsfamousandperfect(sometimessurgicallyperfect)starsandofcoursePsy’sGangnamStyle,whichhadIthinkabillionviewsonYouTubeandmadethatparticularlyposhneighborhoodevenmoredesirable.
AnotherunexpectedaspectofSeoulisthatformostofmylife,untilIwasinmymid30s,Ibelieveditwasalsomybirthcity.Imean,that’swhatIhaveoneveryofficialdocumentinmylifeandwhenpeoplehaveaskedwhereIwasborn,Ialwaysresponded“Seoul”.Thatisuntilmomcasuallydroppedoneday,“younotborninSeoul.Whyyouthinkthat”TowhichIreplied,“UmmmmmmOk.SowherewasIbornAndtheonlywayIwouldknowwhereIwasbornwouldbebecauseyouwould’vetoldme.”MomjustshookherheadinresponsedisappointedthatIwouldcometosuchaconclusion.ApparentlyIwasborninacitycalledGwangju,whichisnotknownotherthantheprestigiousuniversity.Soyeah,notborninSeoul.
Thefirsthalfoftheweekwestayedinahanok,whichisatraditionalKoreanhousethat’slocatedclosetoGyeongbokgungPalace,themostfamousoftheSeoulpalaces.Ithoughtitwouldbefuntohaveamore“authentic”experienceofstayinginoneofthesehistorichomes,butitturnedoutitmeantreallycrampedquarterswheremom,SylviaandIessentiallyplayedTwistertomaneuveraroundeachotherinthebedroomandthatwehadtoescortmominthedarkofnighttofindthebathroomsoshewouldn’tslipandfallontherocksinthecourtyardthatyouhadtocrosstogetthere.Winsome,losesome.
Seoulisabigcity,filledwithsharplydressedKoreanswhoareallinahurrytogetsomewhere,myguessisshopping.Shoppingisn’tacasualactivityinKorea,it’sabloodsport.Wevisitedsomanymalls,openmarkets,boutiques,stallsandthereisn’tasquarefootofSeoulwhereatransactionisn’treadilyavailable.MomandSylviawerePSYCHED.Luckily/unluckilymomandSylboughttwoenormousnewbagsthattheywereonamissiontofill/overloadsowescouredSeoulforallkindsofgoodies.
OneofourtreasurehuntsinvolvedgoingtoNamdaemunMarket,oneofthemostpopularoutdoormarketswhereyoucanfinddealsoneverythingfromclothes,shoes,amazingstreetfood,hairaccessories,medicineandmore.Andifthere’sonethingmomloves,it’smedicine.Nomatterwherewetravelintheworld,she’salwayslookingforacureforavarietyofailmentsandpainsandoftenbringsbackthesetreasuresforgiftsforhersistersandbrother.Wewerelookingforaparticularkindofarthritismedicationwhenmom’slegsandbackwereactingupandunfortunatelythismarketwhereyoucanfindanythingexceptforacomfortableplacetosit.Iknewsheneededabreakfromwalkingaroundintheheat,soItoldhertostayputwithSylviawhileIofferedtorunaroundthemazeofthemarkettofindthemedicineandwouldcomebacktofindthemonceIaccomplishedmymission.
Afterabout30minutesoffranticallyrunningaroundthemarket,IcamebacktothespotwhereIleftmomandwasrelievedtoseeshefoundararebenchinfrontofwhatlookedlikeanantiquemarket.Shelookedexhaustedandoverheated.Rightthenamaninapinkpoloshirtpulledupandparkedhismopednexttothebench.Hegesturedtoacoupleofotherguyssittingonthebenchnexttomomandheasked“who’sthislady”Idislikedhimimmediately.Thetwogoonsshruggedandsmirkedinresponsethattheydidn’tknowandthenPinkPololookedatmomandsaidtoherwithhisrudesttone“Lady,youneedtogetup.Thisismyseat.”Momshotupimmediatelyandrepliedtothis40somethingPinkPoloinshame“I’msorry.Iamjustsotiredandmylegsandbackarereallyhurting”.
ApparentlySylviamadeafailedattempttopullmeandmomawayfromPinkPolobeforethingsescalated,butIhonestlymust’vehadarageblackout.Andthat’swhenshedecidedthebestthingtodowastoescapeonherownintoPokémonGoonherphoneandseeingherholdingherphoneupwaslikewavingaredflaginfrontofaragingbull.PinkPolothencrossedovertowardSylviaandgrabbedthephonefromherhandandstartedscreamingabouttakinghisphoto.Whenhedidthat,Ilostwhatlittlepatienceremainedinmybodyandthought“ok,thisguyisreallycrazy.Hecouldgetphysicalwithus”.SoIrushedover,grabbedhisfreehandbythewristandsimultaneouslyconcoctedanexitstrategythatwouldcausetheleastharmtomomorSyl,whichmayormaynothaveinvolvedtakingmom’smassiveE-cigarettewhomwecallPrecious(asinGollum’sPrecious)anddefendinguswithit.Igotupinhisfaceandthreatened“howdareyoutouchmysisterandgivemethatphone.Ifyoudon’tgivemeherphonerightnow,I’mcallingthepolice!”
Wedidn’trealizethatduringthisconflict,themanymanypeopleinthemarketstartedtocirclearoundustowatchinhorror/excitement/fearatthespectacle.ImanagedtograbthephonefromhimonceItoldhimshewasn’ttakinghispictureandwasjustplayingagameandthenextthingIknew,ateamofskilledolderKoreanwomenwhoworkedinthemarketswarmedarounduslikeaneliteNavySealTeamandpulledusallapart.TheyattemptedtocalmusbyconfirmingandreassuringusthatPinkPolowasinfactanASSHOLEthatwasinthewrong,butthatnothinggoodwouldcomefromcontinuingonwiththisfight.Andtheywereright.
Momwasunderstandablyreallyshakenandupsetfromtheentireordealandtheonlywayshecoulddealwithitwasbyretellingthestorytoeverypersonthatcrossedherpaththerestofthetrip.IthinktheworstpartforherwasthinkingthatSylviaandIwouldwalkawayfromthistriptoKoreathinkingthatthepeopleareawfulandthatwouldcolorourimpressionofthecountryshelovedsomuch.ButIassuredmomthatPinkPolowasn’tanassholebecausehewasKorean.Heisjustanassholethatcould’vebeenfromanywhere.Andtruthisthattherewerealsoreallygood,kind,respectful,helpfulpeoplewemetonthistripaswell.
DespitethisunexpectedstreetfightinSeoul,myoverallimpressionofthecitywasreallypositive.Ihadamazingfood,exploredbeautifulpalacesandhistoricsites,begrudginglyshoppedlikeagladiator,andmostimportant,IspenttimewithtwoofmyfavoriteKoreanAmericans,momandSylvia.AndsoweleftKoreawithourbagsandbelliesfilledtothemax,readytocomebacktoouractualhomeinthegoodol’USA.
AfterafewdaysinBusanwheremom,SylviaandIfilledourbellieswithsomeseriouslydeliciousfood,mom’ssuitcasesalsogrewheavierwithsouvenirsandmedicine,weheadednorthtoGyeongju.Gyeongjuisasmallcityonthesouthwestcoastthatwasoncethecapitalofthe1,000year-longSilladynasty.TherearesomanyancienttemplesandremnantsofKorea’sdynastichistoryandculture.Asatotalhistorynerd,thiswasmyfavoritetowntovisitandhometosomeofthemostbeautifulplaceswe’dseeinSouthKorea.Italsoturnedouttoabeplacewheremomtoldnever-heardstoriesaboutmybiologicalfatherandtheirhappytimestogetherthatIneverimagined.
Westayedinthe“downtown”areaoftown,whichisbarelyadowntownandstillhasawaystogointermsofmakingiteasytonavigatefornon-Koreantourists.Theaccommodationsaremostlycomprisedof“lovemotels”whichareexactlywhattheirnamessuggest.Whatwaspossiblythemostunexpectedaspectoftheseplacesarethewaysthattheybrandthemwithcuteandsexyanimatedfiguresmeetingeachotherforvariousactivitiesincluding,butnotlimitedtoactsoflove.It’satrulyuniqueexperiencetonotonlybeinthiskindofplaceinanAsiancountrythatstilldoesn’tshowFrenchkissingontheirTVshows,buttobetherewithyourmotherandsisteraddsawholeotherelementoftheunexpected.Butweallmanagedtogetpastthesketchinessespeciallysincethereviewsincludedmanyfamilieswhotestifytotheircleanlinessandfamilyfriendliness.
WhatmakesGyeongjureallyspecialwasn’tthelovemotels,butthefactthatyoufeelalmostinstantaneouslythatyou’retravelingbackintime(queueHueyLewis&TheNews)toancientkingdomsruledbykingsandqueensforovera1000years,survivedMongolandJapaneseinvasionsandotherwars.IlovedseeingtheancientpartsoftownpreservedasUnescoWorldHeritageSitesandyoufindwhatremainsofthekingdoms,templesandothersignsoflifefromKorea’srichpast.Bulguksa,oneofthemostfamoustemplesinKoreaisatouristfavoriteandmanyKoreansreturntheretoprayandmakeofferingsinhopesofmakingtheirgreatestdreamscometrue.AnotheruniqueaspecttoGyeongjuisthattherearesomanyburialmoundsofthesedynasticfamiliesalloverthetownanditslandscapeincludeslush,greenhillsrollingonenexttotheother.
AfteranintoxicatingtimeinGyeongju,weboardedabustoSokcho,acitytothenorthnotfarfromSeoulandmostfamousforitsproximitytoSeorak-san(oneofthelargestmountainranges)andalsototheDMZ.Wehadn’tbookedaccommodationsinadvanceofourarrivalasweweretoldbyalocalmaninGyeongjuthatwecouldjustshowupintownandstayinabedandbreakfastandwhatIfoundonlinewasreallylimited.Wedidnotknowthatarrivinginthesummerandonaweekendmadeitreallydifficulttofindabedandbreakfast,butmanagedtolockdownaplacenearSeorakPark,butitwasreallyreallybasicandIthinkallthreeofmissedourcozyandcomfylovemotel.
ThetwohighlightsofourtimeinSokchocouldn’thavebeenmorediametricallyoppositeexperiences.WespentonedaywalkingandhikinginSeorak-sanwhichhadspectacularviews,trees,waterfalls,rocksandaslowlymovingmistwhichalladdedtoafeelinglikewewerewalkingthroughaKoreannaturedream.Aftertakingacablecarupmostofthemountainyoucancontinuetoclimbbyfootuptothehighestpointsoftherange.EventhoughI’vedonemanyofthesehikesduringthisyearofliterallyandfigurativelyclimbingtonewpeaks,itwasreallyspecialtodoitwithmybabysister,Sylvia.
Mytripstothesecitiesfilledmewitharangeofemotionsthatwerecompletelysurprisingandsometimesconflicted.ThereweretimesIfeltlikeIwaswatchingthisexperienceliketheyweremovies.OnewasabiopicofmyparentsandalovestorythatledthemtohaveadaughterwhowouldgrowupanAmerican.TheotherwasahistoricaldramaofaunifiedKoreathatwastragicallytornapartwithafuturethatishardtopredict.Butthisyearoftravelandwitnessingtheaftermathofwar,conflictsandseeinghowresilientpeopleareaftersomeoftheirdarkesttimes,hasmademeamoreoptimisticperson.It’sahardtimeinourownhistorytofeeloptimistic,butIdo.Anditsmyoptimismandgratitudethatallowsmetoseemypastwithrosierlensesandtofeelhopethattherearehappierdaysaheadforme,myfamilyandallofthepeopleofKorea.
IemigratedfromSouthKoreatotheUnitedStatesbackin1978withmymomandmostofmyaunts,unclesandcousins.Iwasjustalittleoverfouryearsoldsomostofmymemoriesof“home”ishereinAmerica.MymemoriesofKoreaareasynthesisofblurryimages,sounds,smellsandpeoplefrommyearlychildhoodmemories,mixedwithstoriesthatmyfamilywouldtellmeovertheyearswiththeirvoicesfilledwithprideandlongingaboutthesmallbutbeautifulcountryofourbirthandhistory.Anddespitethefactthatsomanyyearspassed(almost39tobeexact)beforeIreturnedtomybirthcountryanddiscoveredformyselfifthosememoriesandstoriesliveduptomyimagination.
DespitethefactthatIneverwentbacktoKorea,beingKoreanissuchanimportantanddefiningpartofmyidentityandhowI’vemovedthroughtheworld.IamandhavealwaysalsobeenexceptionallyproudtobeanAmericanbecauseIknewfirsthandthattheAmericanDreamisnotmerelyaninspirationalideal,butarealitythatcamefromeducation,hardwork,opportunities,andperseverancethroughadversity.WhenmomandItookourUSCitizenshipoathstogetherin1990webothfeltsoproudandtookseriouslyourcivicresponsibilityandpatriotism.Sonowmom,Sylvia(whowasborninFlorida)andIwouldreturnasproudKoreanAmericans.
WestartedinthemostpopulartouristattractionandflewintoJejuIsland,oneofthelargestvolcanicislandsinAsia.MomalwaystalkedaboutJejulikeitwasFantasyIslandbutwithKoreanversionsofMr.RoarkeandTattoo.MyonlyotherpointofreferenceforJejuwasthatinnearlyeveryKoreansoapoperamomwatchedmyentirechildhoodthroughadolescence,wasthatallbeautifulKoreancouplesgotherefortheirhoneymoons,takelongromanticwalksonthebeachandshareachastekiss(akanotthewaythoseout-of-controlFrenchdoit)atsunset.WewereallexcitedtocheckitoutforourselvesandInoticedanimmediateandsharpuptickinmom’senthusiasmonceweleftOsaka,JapanandlandedinJeju,Korea.
Jejulivesuptothehypeintermsofitsbeauty,thefloraislush,vibrantandexotic.Therearewaterfalls,cliffs,blacksandbeaches,mountains,freshseafoodandfamousJejuwomendivers.WesawmultipleUnescoWorldHeritageSites,atemealsthatweresogoodthatmomandIhadtomoanoutloud(soundtrackofourtimeinKorea),exploreddarkcaves,swaminthesea,watchedSylviamasterfullysketchscenery,walkedinswelteringhumidityandheatandlaughedalotalongtheway.
AfterJejuweflewtoBusan,thesecondlargestcitylocatedinthesouthernpartofKorea.Irememberthatmymom’seldestsisterwhomwecall#1Emo(AuntinKorean)livedinBusanbackinthedayandthatshewasaverywealthyandbymanyaccounts,abitruthlessinhertimethere.#1Emowastyrannicalrighttotheendofherlifeasshebulliedhervisitingrelativesandmanyofherroommatesatthenursinghome.BusanisalsoaportcityandbestknownforitsincredibleJalgalchiSeafoodMarket.IsawthingsinthatmarketthatIhaveneverseenanywhereintheworldandnotallofitwasstuffIwantedtoeat.BusanwasmyfavoritecityinKoreaasitwaslargeenoughforeaseoftransportationandcityamenities,butitalsohadamorechillvibecomparedtothepaceandintensityofSeoul.Andwitheverynewstop,ourfoodexperiencewasevenmoregratifyingandamazing.
ThefirsthalfofourtriptoKoreawasgoingwellandthethreeofusenjoyedourtimethere.Mom’sprideforthelittlecountrythatsurvivedandthrivedthroughwars,occupations,povertyandtothisdaylivesunderthethreatofnuclearwarwithNorthKoreaisclearlyjustified.However,therewasagrowingobviousnessthatalthoughweareKoreans,weareKoreanAmericansandthedistinctionsthereinbecomemuchclearerasthetripcontinues.MynextblogwillfeaturestoriesfromourtimeinGyeongju,SokchoandSeoul.
IwaslookingforwardtoseeingJapan,acountrythatfriendsandfellowtravelersconsistentlyraveabout,butcandidlyasthedaughterofaKoreanwomanwhoremembersthedevastationofJapaneseoccupation,Iwascautiouswithmyenthusiasmatleastwithmomaround.MysisterSylviaalifelonganimefanandartisthasalwaysbeenopenlyadmiringofJapan,muchtomom’schagrin.Myhopewasthatdespitethelong,complicatedanddevastatinghistorybetweenKoreaandJapan,thatwewouldallenjoyourtimetogetherandassoonasIsawtheiradorablefacesattheairport,Iknewthatwewould.
TokyoTetris
Tokyoisaperfectmetropolitanpuzzle,buildingsofeverysizeandshapethatseemtoperfectlytogether,likeTetrispieces.Everythingisexceptionallycleanwithasometimesannoyinglackofpublictrashcans(becauseyoucarryithomeortotheofficewhereitcanbedisposedofprivately).Anddespitethedensepopulation,itallfeelsspeedyandsilentlyorderly.I’veneverseensuchabigcityfullofsomanypeople,carsandotherformsoftransport,lights,anddistractionsmakingsuchminimalnoise.
I’veheardthatnotmanyJapanesepeoplespeakEnglishandthatprovedtobequitetrue,buttheirreputationforpolitenessisalsospoton.MyfirstdayinTokyo,IwanderedaroundlosttryingtofindmyAirbnbintheKyobashineighborhoodandit’seasytobelostinthesesmallstreetswithoutnames.Alovelyyoungwomansawmewalkingaroundincircles,staringdesperatelyintomyphoneatGoogleMapsandapproachedmeandwedidavarietyofbodyandhandgesturestryingtocommunicate.IshowedherthedirectionsfrommyAirbnbhost,whichincludedlike10screenshotsofcornersofbuildingsdirectingmetotheapartmentnoneofwhichincludestreetnamesbecauseasIalreadymentioned,therearenostreetnames.Thiswomanproceededtowalkafewcircleswithmeforthenext10minutesandIwassogratefulandastoundedbyherpatienceandkindnesssowhenwefoundthebuilding,IwashappysheinitiatedahugbecauseIwasthrilledtogiveheragratefulsqueeze.
WeexploredTokyousingitsamazinglyefficientpublictransportationsystem,usingmostlytheirsubwaysandtrainstogetaroundthecity.AtipforthosewhoaregoingtotravelaroundJapan,goaheadandbuytheJRRailPass.It’sexpensive,butworthit.NotonlydoesthispassallowyoutotravelbuythefamousJapanesebullettrainsfromcitytocity,buttheJRlinesalsorunallovertheTokyoprovinceaswellandthepassisgoodforthosetrainsandyoucanusethatpassasmuchasyou’dlikefortheperiodthatyourpassisvalid.
FoodGloriousFood
LikeGodzilla,wedestroyedeverythinginourpaths.Well,everythingthat’sedible,includingthesushi,savoryramens,crispytonkatsu(deepfriedporkcutlet),yakitori(skewers),mochi(sweetricecakes)ateveryturnandsomanythings.Japanesecuisineisdeliciousandalwaysbeautifullypresentedevenwhenyou’reeatingatthemostcasualizakaya.Infact,ourfirstnightinTokyo,wewanderedtoalocalizakayaandweregivenenthusiasticwelcomesinJapaneseandthemenuwhichwasallinJapanese(asaremostmenusinJapan)andpointedtopicturesoffoodthatlookedrelativelyfamiliarorjustyummy.Thetinycafewasfilledsothewaitermadeanimpromptutableforuswithafewplasticcratesandapieceofwoodthattheyputtogetheronthesmallstreetoutsidetherestaurant.Thethreeofussquatted,graciouslyatethedeliciousmealandlaughedastheonlycookwhoisapparentlyalsothelogisticspersonleftthegrill,jumpedonabikeandreturnedinaboutfiveminuteswithstoolsforthenextgroupofpatronstositonthestreetnexttous.
AkhibaraAnimeHeaven
DomoArigatoMr.RobotRestaurant
There’sreallynowaytoaccuratelydescribethissurrealexperienceinwaythatdoesitjustice.It’spartmusical,partdanceperformancewitheverythingfromunicorns,robots,dragons,lasers,andrainbowsallcollidingtogetherforanunforgettablehourandahalf.Yes,it’sverytouristyandIthinkeveryforeigntouristinTokyowasintherestaurant,butit’salsosuchauniquelyJapaneseculturalexperience.
TakingItDownALevelinIzu
WetookthespeedtraintotheIzuPeninsulatoasmalltownjustoutsideofItoandstayedinatraditionalJapanesehousewithslidingwooddoors,sleepingontatamimats,allnestledinaquietstreetwheretheonlysoundarepassingtrains.It’satotallysleepytownontheblackrock/sandbeachandlikemuchofJapan,surroundedbymountains.WelovedIzu,it’sscenicandquietandwewereabletoslowdownfromthedizzyingpaceofTokyolife.Wesawsomelovelytemples,amazingvolcaniccliffsandturquoisewater,andmomandSylviarodeskiliftsforthefirsttime.OurfavoritepartoftheIzuexperiencewasvisitinganonsen,aJapanesebathhousethat’ssetinthemountainswithanoutdoorbathwhereyoucansitinthesteamybathsetoutdoorsoverlookingthesideofthemountainandyoufeellikeVenusrising,allpowerful,beautifulandnude.Mom,SylviaandIspentalotofqualitytimetogetherthispastmonth,includingmuchofitwithourclothesoffvisitingtheseawesomebaths.WheninJapan…
KyototheFlorenceofJapan
EveryonelovesKyotoandit’sbecauseit’sgorgeousandtimeless.Inmanyways,IfeltlikeKyotowastheFlorenceofJapan,notasmuchhappeninginthecrazinessofTokyo,butthere’swonderfulculturallivelinessandthehistoryfeelsmoretangiblethere.PartofthatisbecausetherearetemplesliterallyeverywhereinthecityandwestayedinGion,thepartofthecityknownfortemplesandararegeishasighting.Thereareatonofkimonorentalshopsasmanypeople,especiallytheyoungadultswanttoexperiencethiscityintraditionalclothes.AndasmuchasIlovethewaysthesekimonoslook,Ihavetosaythatwith90+degreeweatherand300%humidity,Ididn’tenvytheseprettyladiesintheirclothesandstrugglingupthesesteepstreetsintheirwoodensandals.
WewereluckyenoughtomeetmynewfriendBenfromtheUSwhoislivinginKyotosowegotapersonaltourofthisamazingcity.Ben’sincrediblyknowledgeableandexcitedaboutJapansoitwasfuntoseethecitywithhimandhetookustosomeawesomeplaces,includingKinkakujiTemple(theGoldenTemple),RyoanjiTemplethehomeofJapan’smostfamousrockgardenandadrizzlywalkdownPhilosopher’sPath.
MyfavoritepartofKyotowasthebambooforestinthenorthernpartofKyoto.IlovedAngLee’sCrouchingTigerHiddenDragonandoneofthemostmemorablescenesfromthatmovietookplaceinthisbambooforest.It’sotherworldlyandyou’reslowlymeanderingthroughgreenserenity.
OhYeahOsaka
WeendedourfabulousjourneythroughJapaninOsaka,thecountry’ssecondlargestcity.IthadmanyoftheamenitiesofTokyobutfeltfarlessdenseandimmense.Thecity’smostfamousforfoodandwedefinitelyknowwhyaswehadsomeofourfavoritemealsinOsaka.IalsogottoseemyfriendShunwhomImetinAustraliaandwequicklybecamelifelongbuddies.HelivesinKobenotfarfromOsakaandmetusattheOsakaCastlestopandbroughtustoaninsanelydeliciousramenplace.Afterstuffingourfaceswithsaltysavoryramen,weexploredtheincredibleOsakaCastle.Itwaslike200degreesthatday,butwelovedeveryminuteofitandlovedseeingitwithmyfavoriteJapanesefriend.
InthesecondhalfofmyadventuresinthegreatandpowerfulOz,IsaygoodbyetothedesertoftheNorthernTerritoryandheadtoQueenslandfortheseatotheeastcoasthometoitsworldfamousbeaches,crazysurfersandofcoursetheGreatBarrierReef.TheroadtripcontinuesasIridetheGreyhoundbusdownfromCairnstoSydney,continuingtomeetnewfriends,conqueramajorfearandevencuddlethenatives.
Sailing,DingosandWhalesOhMy!
MyfriendAnjaandIalsodidatwodaysailingtriptotheWhitsundaysonaboatcalledtheMatador.TheWhitsundaysareagroupofislandsincludingWhitehavenBeachthathasthewhitest,softestsandandperfectturquoisewaterintheworld.WhileAnjawhoisincrediblyathleticandthefirsttoraiseherhandwhenthecrewasksforvolunteerstoworkthesails,myprimaryjobwasthedominimallaborandmaximumrelaxation.WemetsomefunpeopleonthetourfromallovertheworldandthecrewofthreesupertannedandfunnyAussiesmadeforamemorabletimeontheMatador.
Uluru,ABigRedSacredRock
OneoftheaspectsofmytimeinAustraliathatIfoundreallytragicwaslearningmoreaboutthehistoryofandseeinghowsomanyoftheindigenouspeoplelive.Thehistoryofgenocide,persecution,racismhaspaidaheavytollontheoriginalpeopleandtheiryoungergenerations.MuchliketheshamefulhistoryandcurrentpervasiveracismthatexistsinAmerica,Australiahasfartogoinmakingchangesnotonlypolitically,butsociallytobringthesepeopletoequality.ItwasmoststarkinAliceSprigswheremanyaboriginalpeopleliveandwerevisiblyundertheinfluenceofalcoholanddrugs.
Afterthetourended,manyofusspentthelastnightinAliceSpringsouttogether,sharingalastmealanddrinkstogether.MytimewiththeAliceSpringstourgroupwasreallyfun.Wewerelikeamixoffamily,friends,schoolkidsandfellowworldtravelerssharingstories,adviceandlaughedourwaythroughthousandsofmilestogether.Iamsohappywegottoexperiencethispartofmytripwithnewfriendswhocheeredmeon,laughedatandwithme,someofwhomIwouldseeagaininAustraliaandotherswhomIhopetoseesomewhereelseintheworld.